Italy

Exterior sculptural decoration of Villa Barbaro, Maser

Frontal view of Villa Barbaro in Maser, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Frontal view of Villa Barbaro in Maser, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Villa Barbaro, also called Villa di Maser, is one of the most famous villas in Italy, known both as a fine example of Andrea Palladio’s (1508–80) domestic architecture and for its extensive interior frescoes by Paolo Veronese.

In Palladio’s symmetrical, classically-inspired design, two barchesse (aka, colonnaded storage or work areas) flank either end of the villa, and are connected to the main house by single-story arcades. The sprawling front of the buildings is punctuated regularly with sculptural decoration, additions that add texture and interest to the façade while, from close up, gently disrupting its near-perfect symmetry.

As is typical of wealthy homes from the late Renaissance, the decoration mostly presents a mixture of classical, Christian, astrological, and heraldic subjects. Such a combination not only pays homage to these sources, but visually and conceptually integrates the building’s owners into the intellectual, historical, religious, and political fabric of their period. The fact that the largest, highest, and most central of these sculptures consist of the Barbaro family’s heraldry likewise both announces the family’s ownership of the estate and asserts their importance in society.

What is less typical is the likelihood that much of this sculptural decor was made by one of Palladio’s patrons, Marcantonio Barbaro (1518–95). Carolyn Kolb (and the docent we spoke with onsite) credits Marcantonio—who, with his older brother Daniele (1514–70), commissioned the villa’s construction—with the niche sculptures on the front of the barchesse and in the nymphaeum (30).

Tympanum

The central structure of Villa Barbaro, decorated with high-relief sculpture and giant, two story columns supporting a flat portico.

Palladio designed the central structure of Villa Barbaro to resemble a Roman temple with a pediment filled with high-relief sculpture and two-story Ionic columns. However, whereas in a Roman temple the columns would have functioned to support the roof over a large porch, or portico, the columns here are primarily decorative and lie flat against the building’s front.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Tympanum of Villa Barbaro, Maser. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Tympanum of Villa Barbaro, Maser, decorated with the heraldry of the Barbaro family and the imperial crowned double-headed eagle most closely associated with both the Byzantine and Holy Roman empires.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Barchesse and arcades

View of northeast section of Villa Barbaro: main house (left), arcade, and barchessa with astrological sundial (right). Unfortunately, the southwest barchessa and arcade were inaccessible during our visit.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Northeast arcade of Villa Barbaro, connecting the main house to the flanking barchessa. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Northeast arcade of Villa Barbaro, connecting the main house to a flanking barchessa.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Astrological sundial of the northeastern barchessa (Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Astrological sundial and mythological niche sculptures of the northeastern barchessa.

Villa Barbaro, Maser, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Niche sculptures of Perseus (left) and Diana (right) by Marcantonio Barbaro on the northeastern barchessa of Villa Barbaro.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Terracotta relief of Christ and the Sacred Heart at Villa Barbaro.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Garden sculpture with view of a barchessa at Villa Barbaro.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

nymphaeum

Nymphaeum of Villa Barbaro. The sculptures of opposite niches form pairs. From the outside going in, the left-right pairs are: male and female satyrs, Juno and Bacchus, Actaeon and Diana, Amymone and Neptune, and Helios and Venus.

Villa Barbaro, Maser, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Located directly behind the main house, Villa Barbaro’s nymphaeum was probably designed by Marcantonio Barbaro and Palladio. Its stucco decoration continues the classical allusions of Palladio’s architecture and Veronese’s interior frescoes, with most of the figures identifiable through their symbolic attributes (see captions). Marcantonio, an amateur artist better known to history and contemporaries as a Venetian diplomat and senator, likely sculpted its four giants as well as the niche sculptures. The reflecting pool doubled as a fishpond and was connected to a natural spring and the villa’s kitchen through a complex hydraulic system. The same system also irrigated the villa’s gardens (Kolb 17).

Architectural drawing of Villa Barbaro, from I quattro libri dell'architettura di Andrea Palladio (Book 2, page 51, collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art). The semicircular nymphaeum appears at the top of the drawing.

Architectural drawing of Villa Barbaro, from I quattro libri dell'architettura di Andrea Palladio (Book 2, page 51, collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art). A larger version of the semicircular nymphaeum appears at the top of the drawing.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Sculpture of a river god or personification of a specific river, perhaps the nearby Piave, in the central grotto of Villa Barbaro’s nymphaeum.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Niche with statues of Venus and Cupid in the nymphaeum of Villa Barbaro. The giant on the left resembles a telamon, or male figure used in place of a column, also known as an atlas, atlante, or atlantid. However, neither this figure nor the other three like it actually serve a structural function. Rather, they are visual demarcations, framing the two rows of niches, the central grotto, and the nymphaeum itself.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Niche sculptures of the goddess Juno (Hera) with her peacock and the hunter Actaeon transforming into a deer while being attacked by his own dogs.

Nymphaeum of Villa Barbaro, Maser, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

The goddess Diana (Artemis) with her bow and arrows beside Bacchus (Dionysus) with his panther. Bacchus holds a dove, an unusual accompaniment for the god, which Carolyn Kolb has convincingly argued is a reference to his mother, Semele. She notes Bacchus’s placement opposite Juno and the inscription that accompanies the statue: “One who flies to heaven, pure and untouched/Is safe from the grumblings.” Taken together, these words and symbols likely refer to the mortal Semele’s death as a direct result of Juno’s jealousy and Jupiter’s infatuation.

Nymphaeum of Villa Barbaro, Maser, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Reference: Carolyn Kolb with Melissa Beck (ed.), “The Sculptures on the Nymphaeum Hemicycle of the Villa Barbaro at Maser,” Artibus et Historiae Vol. 18, No. 35 (1997), pp. 19–20.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

The figure standing on a large fish is the Danaid Amymone. The water pitcher on her shoulder likely represents the spring of Lerna, which Neptune—who resides in the opposite niche (see above)—revealed to her (Kolb 22–23). Kolb has likewise identified the winged figure as Helios, which makes sense in the broader context of the nymphaeum, with its alternating male and female figures and his placement opposite Venus, with whom he shares a myth (24–25). However, I must admit that I initially thought the figure was female and had assumed it to be either the messenger and rainbow goddess Arcus (Iris), who was sometimes depicted with wings, or Victoria (Nike), goddess of victory and protectress of the senate.

Nymphaeum of Villa Barbaro, Maser, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Giant pseudo-telamons flanking the central grotto of the nymphaeum at Villa Barbaro, Maser, Italy.

Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Non-Sculpture Bonus: Adorable Onsite Fluff

The Veneto’s many friendly, floppy-eared dogs were unexpected highlights of our time in Italy, including this pup, who greeted us and requested belly rubs in the parking lot of Villa Barbaro.

Photo by Joshua Albers.

Frescoed interiors of Villa Lante's garden palazzine

Frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Two box-like palazzine—a term which can usually be translated as small buildings, but in this case really means small palaces or villas—rise from the southern corners of Villa Lante’s lowest gardens. From their exteriors, the structures appear as twins with the same (or roughly the same) dimensions, materials, and stark features. However, the two were actually built about thirty years apart under different owners, a fact their stylistically and thematically divergent interior decoration makes readily apparent.

Palazzine Montalto (left) and Gambara (right) rise over Villa Lante’s Fountain of the Square and surrounding manicured garden. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Palazzine Montalto (left) and Gambara (right) rise over Villa Lante’s Fountain of the Square and surrounding manicured garden. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

The late Renaissance frescoes filling the loggia of Palazzina Gambara (c. 1568–78) are structured much like the gardens themselves, with imagery divided into discreet compartments and filled with personal and political symbols (like Cardinal Gambara’s emblematic shrimp), grotesques, and nods to classical mythology. These elements surround large depictions of central Italy’s great Renaissance villas and gardens, including Villa d’Este, Palazzo Farnese, and Villa Lante itself.

Conversely, a far more integrated and less overtly political Baroque design envelopes the loggia of Palazzina Monalto (1590–1612). Here, the ceiling is covered with trompe l’oeil depictions of skylights and birds. This illusion even carries into the room’s two narrow walls, which are painted to suggest the continuation of the loggia far beyond its actual ends. Grotesques and mythological figures appear as well, but take a more limited role and are painted in broader, looser brushwork than found in the older palazzina.

Only the loggia of each building is open to the public. For more information on the surrounding gardens and their history, see my previous photo-essay on Villa Lante. You can also find more about the buildings themselves from these useful links:

Traveling in Tuscany, “Gardens in Italy: Villa Lante

Villa Lante, “Palazzina Montalto” and “Palazzina Gambara

Palazzina Gambara

Frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara including a depiction of Villa Lante itself. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara including a depiction of Villa Lante itself. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Detail of the frescoes inside  Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Detail of the frescoes inside Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Frescoes on the ceiling of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Frescoes on the ceiling of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Detail of frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Detail of frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Frescoes on the ceiling of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Frescoes on the ceiling of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Detail of frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Detail of frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Detail of frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Detail of frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Gambara. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Palazzina Montalto

After Cardinal Gambara’s death in 1587, the 17-year-old nephew of Pope Sixtus V, Alessandro Damasceni Peretti Montalto, took over the position of Apostolic Administrator of Viterbo and owner of Villa Lante. Montalto commissioned the building of the …

After Cardinal Gambara’s death in 1587, the 17-year-old nephew of Pope Sixtus V, Alessandro Damasceni Peretti Montalto, took over the position of Apostolic Administrator of Viterbo and owner of Villa Lante. Montalto commissioned the building of the second palazzina, following Gambara’s original plans.

Frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Montalto. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Montalto. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Montalto. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Detail of frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Montalto. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Detail of frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Montalto. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Detail of frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Montalto. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Detail of frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Montalto. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Montalto. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Frescoes inside the loggia of Villa Lante’s Palazzina Montalto. Bagnaia, Viterbo, Italy. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.